I believe a large water body, be it a river, sea, or lake, has a profound effect on men and women living near it.
I lived near beautiful Lake Geneva for six years. That lake has become a part of me. Perhaps in my subconscious mind, I long for the silence I used to enjoy while walking along the shores of Lake Geneva.
When I saw Lake Tahoe, I was overwhelmed with joy. After almost two years, I saw a lake similar to Lake Geneva, where I spent countless hours thinking and reflecting on life and death.
Among many romantic getaways in California, the beautiful Lake Tahoe, the largest alpine lake in North America, will take first place.
I visited on Christmas Day, when snow lay along the shore and the pine trees stood white against the water. That is the Lake Tahoe this guide is about — the lake in winter.
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Among many romantic getaways in California, the beautiful Lake Tahoe, the largest alpine lake in North America, will take the first place. #California Share on XLake Tahoe in winter at a glance
If you are planning a December trip, here is the short version before I take you along on mine.
- Temperature: daytime highs sit in the 30s to low 40s°F, and nights fall below 20°F.
- Chains: when chain controls are in effect they are required by law — even on 4WD and AWD vehicles.
- Roads: Highway 89 past Emerald Bay can close after heavy snowfall, so check conditions the morning you travel.
- North Shore or South Shore: the North Shore is quieter and more wooded; the South Shore has the larger resorts, the casinos and more to do after dark.
- You do not need to ski. Some of my happiest hours here were spent walking a snowy shoreline with a camera.
Coming in a warmer month instead? I have written a separate 4-day Lake Tahoe summer itinerary.
A trip to beautiful Lake Tahoe in California!
The first glimpses that flashed in my mind are that of a serene lake, snow-clad mountains, a golden sand beach, an empty bench, tall pine trees, my daughter playing with a snowman, and a beautiful tunnel.
A beautiful tunnel
From every trip I have taken so far, I have memories of inspiring moments.
In this scenic California road trip, it was the view from a tunnel; a long dark tunnel, at the end of which I saw not just light but a glimpse of heaven.
From every trip I have taken so far, I have memories of inspiring moments. In this trip, it was the view from a tunnel; a long dark tunnel, at the end of which I saw not just light but a glimpse of heaven. #LakeTahoe #California Share on XTravel Tip: Loved your trip to Lake Tahoe? Discover more amazing getaways with the Getaway Guide to Top Weekend Trips from the Bay Area.
Emerald Bay Lookout
On highway 89, the view from the Emerald Bay lookout is serene and eye-soothing. I saw the sky and the mountain floating together in the water.
The scene radiates beauty and harmony.
On highway 89, the view from the Emerald Bay lookout is serene and eye soothing. I saw the sky and the mountain floating together in the water. The scene radiates beauty and harmony. #LakeTahoe #California Share on X
With every turn, the views are stunning. Since it was Christmas that day, almost all the places were crowded.
I wanted to spend some quiet time so thought of witnessing the sunset from a less crowded place.
Like me, if you want to savor the bliss and beauty of Lake Tahoe away from the crowd then consider backpacking into the Desolation Wilderness.
Tip: Summertime South Lake Tahoe Itinerary by a fellow travel blogger
Visiting Emerald Bay in winter
Emerald Bay is the view most people come for, and winter only improves it — granite cliffs, dark green water, and snow resting on every branch above it.
There are three viewpoints along Highway 89, all within a short distance of one another:
- Inspiration Point sits around 600 feet above the bay and has a short paved path, making it the easiest to reach and the most accessible.
- Lower Eagle Falls looks over the bay from beside the waterfall, and it is at its best late in the afternoon.
- Eagle Point gives the widest view of the whole basin ringed by cliffs.
A few practical things worth knowing. The parking areas are small and fill early, particularly over the holidays. Vikingsholm, the castle at the foot of the bay, is open for tours only in the warmer months, and the trail down to it is steep and often icy. And after a big storm Highway 89 through here can close altogether, so always check road conditions before you set out.
Sunset in Lake Tahoe
Sunset is an extraordinary time when the blue sky turns into purple, orange, and red.
After years of travel, I still love gazing at fiery sunsets.
A feeling of connection with nature emerges not only in exotic locations but also through these simplest and commonplace experiences.
One practical note for December: the sun drops behind the mountains early here, at around 4:40 in the afternoon near the solstice. Aim to be at your viewpoint by four, and carry more layers than you think you need — the temperature falls very fast once the light goes.
If you see the picture above in detail then you can see two little golden statues on my side.
Someone perhaps kept the statues there for some special reason. I don’t know exactly why, but I felt good.
I saw little Jesus and mother Mary on my side on Christmas evening. Sweet incidents such as these turn our journeys into stories.
Travel Tip: Also read North Lake Tahoe in Summer
Things to do at Lake Tahoe in winter besides skiing
I am not a skier, and I have never once felt short of things to do here in winter. If you are travelling with children, or you simply want a slower trip, there is plenty.
- Ice skating in Tahoe City. The Winter Sports Park has an outdoor rink, a small sledding hill, and groomed trails for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
- A horse-drawn sleigh ride at Sand Harbor. These run through the winter season on the north shore and are lovely with fresh snow on the ground.
- Snow play and tubing. The tube parks around the lake have long lanes served by conveyor belts, so nobody has to trudge back up the hill.
- Christmas lights. The Village at Palisades Tahoe holds a tree lighting, and on the south shore the tall tree in Heavenly Village lights up each evening.
- The Tahoe Nutcracker. Performances are usually held in the middle of December.
- Simply walking the shoreline. This is what I did, and it is still my clearest memory of the whole trip.
Travel Tip: dates, opening hours and prices change every season, so do check before planning a day around any of these. For more snowy places within reach, see the best places to see snow in California.
Where to stay in Lake Tahoe
I spent 4 beautiful nights at the Franciscan Lakeside Lodge, a small and cozy lodge by the shores of Lake Tahoe, with direct access to the beach.
Our beautifully decorated lakeside studio was equipped with a kitchenette and was perfect for our family of three.
My daughter loved her yummy cheese omelet for breakfast while watching the scintillating blue lake from the comfort of our cozy room.
When I opened the window, birds’ songs filled our room.
Seeing tall pine trees through the window and watching colorful birds was my favorite morning activity during the stay.
This place is also perfect for couples in search for romantic escapes!
If you are planning a trip to Lake Tahoe, Franciscan Lakeside Lodge has it all. Nature, comfort, and solitude! Book your stay at the Franciscan Lakeside Lodge.
More places to stay on the North Shore
If the Franciscan is full — and over Christmas week it often is — these three are all on the quieter north side of the lake:
- Granlibakken Tahoe – in Tahoe City, with its own sledding hill and snow play area, which makes it an easy choice with children.
- Sunnyside Resort and Lodge – right on the water in Tahoe City, with the kind of old lodge atmosphere that suits a snowy evening.
- The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe – above Northstar near Truckee, ski-in ski-out, if you would like to be thoroughly looked after.
Whichever you choose, book early for Christmas and New Year. The lake fills up.
Planning a winter trip to Lake Tahoe
Getting there
From the San Francisco Bay Area it is roughly four hours to the north shore in good conditions, and longer in winter — snow, chain controls and holiday traffic can easily add an hour or two. From Sacramento it is around two hours, and from Reno under an hour. If you are weighing up other December trips from the Bay Area, I have gathered 25 cosy California getaways in December.
Chains and road conditions
This is the part people underestimate. When chain controls are in effect, chains are required by law — including on many 4WD and AWD vehicles. Carry a set, know how to fit them before you need to, and check the Caltrans road conditions both before you leave and before you drive home.
What to pack
Snow boots with real grip, layers, gloves and a warm hat. If you are photographing the lake, bring spare camera batteries. The cold drains them far faster than you would expect.
How many days do you need?
I stayed four nights and was glad of every one. Two nights is enough for the drive around the lake and one good sunset. Four lets you slow down, which is rather the point of this place.
Lake Tahoe in winter: frequently asked questions
Is Lake Tahoe worth visiting in winter?
Yes, and I would argue this is when it is at its most beautiful. Away from the ski resorts the crowds thin out, the shoreline is quiet, and snow on the pines against that deep blue water is a sight you will keep.
Is Emerald Bay open in winter?
The viewpoints along Highway 89 are usually open, but the road can close after heavy snow, and Vikingsholm tours run only in the warmer months. Check road conditions on the morning you plan to go.
Do I need chains to drive to Lake Tahoe?
You need to carry them. When chain controls are in effect they are required by law, and that includes 4WD and AWD vehicles in many conditions. Hire cars do not usually come with a set.
What is there to do at Lake Tahoe in winter besides skiing?
Ice skating, sleigh rides, tubing and snow play, Christmas tree lightings, and walking the shoreline. The section above covers each of these in more detail.
How cold does Lake Tahoe get in December?
Daytime highs usually sit in the 30s to low 40s°F, and nights drop below 20°F.
Does Lake Tahoe freeze?
The lake itself does not freeze over, because it is so deep and holds so much water. Shallow bays and the smaller lakes nearby can ice at the edges.
North Shore or South Shore in winter?
The North Shore is quieter, more wooded and better suited to a restful trip — it is where I stayed. The South Shore has the bigger resorts, the casinos and more going on after dark.
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After the sunset, I bid adieu to this picturesque, majestic and sublime lake and returned to our hotel. The next day we explored the city and took the gondola to go up into the mountains.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to Lake Tahoe, the largest alpine lake in North America!
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